Showing posts with label Goan Cuisine and Goan Brew. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Goan Cuisine and Goan Brew. Show all posts

Thursday, July 16, 2009

GTDC to float Goa's own cruise ship

The Goa Tourism Development corporation will soon float a tender for a cruise ship with the latest state of the art facilities and a 250 person seating capacity to float in Goa's rivers which is expected to benefit tourism in Goa in a big way. The tender will be open to shipyards in Goa who will also be eligible to bid for the same. The Cruise ship is expected to be incorporated with emerging features such as GSM, satellite services, latest sound systems, total air-conditioning, LCD televisions, Wi-fi systems and a full fledged restaurant with smaller food courts.Mandovi cruise ship tourism

The cruise which will be around 50 metres long and 11 metres wide, will have a capacity to seat 250 people and will be running on a powerful engine and high speeds. In its ambitious plans the department of tourism wants to offer tourists bound for Goa, a thrilling opportunity of experiencing the entire stretch of the Mandovi river region in Goa within one journey through the cruise ship.The cruise will not be limited to shallow waters and will be able to venture out into the deep sea.Mandovi river

The ship is also expected to be leased out to the Corporates for private gatherings, conferences and late night parties, deep in the sea with music at full-blast with no disturbances to the local people of Goa.

Sunday, July 5, 2009

Liquor Bars in Goa to be stripped of religious names

So your favourite bar in Goa with a holy name, may not be the same again. Atleast in name. Although Feni by any other name is bound to taste as heady as ever, the bars in Goa which bear a religious name may have to change it as per the amended excise rules banning liquor bars with religious names. The rule which comes into force immediately was effected by a notification to that effect which was issued on June 26 2009. While the new rules immediately effect those who have applied for new licenses and renewals, the existing bars with hallowed names will have to await a policy decision by the government on their name-fate.

Goa abounds in liquor bars all over the state and is home to around 6,500 licensed liquor bars which are often tagged with names of gods, goddesses anBar in Goa with a religious named saints. So it is very common to see a "St Anthony's bar" or a "Durga bar" or Vailankanni's  bar to a bar named after Goddess Laxmi.

The government of Goa has added sub-rule 11 to rule 90 of the Goa excise duty rules, through which the finance department says " No license having a license for retail sale of India made foreign liquor and country liquor and/or foreign liquor for consumption on premises shall carry out the business in the name and style which denotes a religious name"

The above rule is in compliance to a private member's resolution passed in the assembly by opposition leader Manohar Parrikar in 2008. the government is planning to enforce the rule in totality for new licenses as well as renewal of licenses. however it may face a lot of opposition to existing bars which may have developed a lot of goodwill and brand image under a particular name associated with it and the government may have to consider their sentiments.

Commenting on the move, the opposition leader Mr Manohar Parrikar remarked that "God's  name is to be used for good things and giving God's name to a bar can hurt the sentiments of the people "which he said is not allowed anywhere in the country and added that chance of unholy things happening in bars with holy names is a high probability.

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Sao Joao celebrations beckon Goa

The feast of Saint John the Baptist is a favourite among Goans and the entire state gets set at this time of the year to get its watery act together to celebrate what is commonly known as "Sao Joao" festival in Goa. In Salcete, the feast is celebrated with a lot of gusto especially in the village of Benaulim which has the Church of St John the Baptist and the feast is on the 24th Of June. Sao Joao Day!

The Church of St John the Baptist in Benaulim is located on the  picturesque hillock situated at the entrance of Colva and towards  Benaulim. This Church also has a unique architecture and is well admired by tourists whsao joao revelry in Goao flock to the place when they visit Colva and Benaulim. Novenas are held for 9 days prior to the feast day and the feast is celebrated with a lot of pomp and gaiety known to be part of such feasts in Goa. This time as usual there are a lot of programmes lined up including singing and dancing acts besides the prospect of watching a tantalising soccer match. Besides the  Benaulim parish, the feast is also celebrated in other villages of Goa such as Cortalim, Harmal and Terekhol in the north.

An unique tradition which runs is that the son-in-law gets invited to the brides house on the feast day. Also the newly married son-in-law wears a crown of fruits or leaves and jumps into the well. It is believed that it is for this very reason that many youngsters  jump in wells all over Goa in celebration and revelry accompanied by the sounds of the ghumot and traditional music and songs such as some delightfully sung mando's. Rivers, ponds, lakes and pools are not spared for a bountiful dip on this day asao Joao - jumping in wells in goand the young and the old join in the melee which reaches a crescendo towards the afternoon. Goan food, traditional drinks and various Goan delicacies make their way into this festive mood and the whole atmosphere is of fun and joy.

The chant of "Viva Sao Joao" is however not limited to south Goa alone and the north of Goa in fact has various locations where the celebrations are far more wider and louder. It is believed that St John the Baptist leapt with Joy in his mother Elizabeth's womb when she was visited by mother Mary. This is actually the basic background under which the "jumping" in the wells has become a traditional feature in Goa. Villages of Anjuna, Calangute Vagator,  and Siolim celebrate the feast of Sao Joao in a pompous manner.

In the village of Siolim, the celebration is very prominent and every village area plays its part with places such as Igrejavaddo, Gaunsavaddo, Marna and Fernandesvaddo chanting the "Viva Sao Joao ' in style. Distribution of Jackfruit, mangoes , Goan foods and pouring of water on newly married daughters-in-laws is a tradition in Gaunsawaddo.

In Siolim and in Goa as a whole the spectacle to look out for during  the Sao Joao celebrations is however the grand boat parade which has increased its followers over the years. A large number of people flock to witness this parade and this 175 year old history sao joao celebrationsof celebrating Sao Joao in this village continues till date. However the event which may have started long ago on a small note has magnified in size and shape to turn out into a major attraction of Goa. The youth are traditionally known to merge from the neighboring places around Siolim coming in decorated boats wearing crowns or tender coconut leaves, singing Mandos and playing the Ghumot. After reaching near the cross in front of the church,they light candles at the cross, put a garland, light firecrackers , perform the "Saude" and dance around with the chant of Viva Sao Joao.

The boat procession is a replication of the entry of the Portuguese merchants along with the miraculous statue of St Anthony. The event was given a more organised shape in the year 1992 by some traditionally live Goans from Siolim and thus the "Sao Joao traditional boat parade" was formally christened. Later a committee was formed and since 1997 the Siolim Sao Joao traditional boat festival committee ensured that the festival was organised in a proper manner till date.

Thursday, May 21, 2009

Summer time coolers in Goa

During the months of April and may, Goa is at its hotter end with humidity levels higher than usual. The heat coupled withsummer drinks in Goa the high levels of humidity often makes it unbearable leading to dehydration and fatigue. It is therefore that time of the year when people in Goa are thirsting for that super drink to quench themselves.

Also the desire to have a radiantly moist skin free of wrinkles or blemishes is there in almost everyone. The solution to have such a skin is to have lot of fluids free of alcohol.

In Goa traditionally people are known to have natural drinks to quench their thirst and cooling drinks such as tender coconut water, bhindachem sherbet , limbu sherbet and sugarcane juice are often served to guests in Goa.

Fresh lemon juice contains natural citric acid with ample vitamin C which helps to restore the electrolyte balance in the body. Kococonut water in goakum drinks are known to have proven to be effective against obesity. Another drink consumed by Goans during summertime is "kothmir-jeeryanche udak" which is a boiled decoction of coriander and cumin seeds. Drinks such as panak, tender coconut water keep the skin cells hydrated. Juices help our bodies get rid of toxins.

In Goa, Muslims serve sherbet-jaggery mixed with water and often flavoured with cardamom powder - On the day of Muharram. Panak is a juice prepared with kokum, fresh lime and water flavoured with spices. It is rich in vitamins, minerals and nutrients. Panak is served on the day of Gudi Padwa, specially prepared during vaishakhi in Hindu Mutts.

After separating the Kokum rinds, the seeds that are left are soaked in water for 1-2 hours and then drained. The water in which the seeds were dipped is then flavoured with pepper powder, salt and jaggery. This is traditionally prepared in clay pots.

Another way of making panak is by mixing water in fresh kokum extract( agal ) alosummer drink in Goang with pepper powder, salt, ginger juice and jaggery. Instead of using fresh ginger juice, dry ginger powder (soonth) could be used. Another type of panak is made with lime juice, ginger powder, water and jaggery. Panak should be sweet and sour with a pungent tinge. Vitamin C in lime juice protects skin cells from free radical damage. Therefore drinking panak everyday will promote good health, heal your body, give you energy and prevent skin diseases.

Bhindache sherbet is a welcome drink prepared by soaking kokum rinds in water. After draining these, sugar, cumin seed powder and salt are added. Instead of cumin powder it is flavoured at times with cardamom powder. Panhe is prepared by boiling mature firm mangoes in water. the pulp is extracted mixed with sugar, ginger powder or cardamom powder and salt. This can be stored in bottles. In Maharashtra it is prepared by roasting green mangoes.

Limbache sherbet is a mix of lime juice , water, salt and sugar which is often flavoured with cardamom powder. In Goa, Catholics prepare "orchata" from almonds by blanching and then removkokum drink in Goaing their skins. Almonds are then ground into a consistency of thick coconut milk ( aapross) and strained. Almond milk thus extracted is then mixed with a syrup of one string consistency, continuosly stirred so that no lumps are formed. this is cooked till a thick syrup is formed, rose essence or almond essence is added and it is preserved in a bottle. Cashew nuts are used in the preparation in case almonds are unavailable. Orchata is always served on special occasions in diluted form.

Also types of fruit syrups called Xerope are prepared in catholic homes in Goa. Hindus term Xerope as Sherbet. Xeropes are prepared from local limes grown in Goa, which have a thick pale orange skin when ripe. This is known as Xerope de limao. Kokum syrup is called Xerope de brindao whereas Jamun (jambla) syrup is called Xerope de jambulao.Syrups are also prepared from ripe passion fruits.

The most ideal syrup, Xerope or sherbet should always be the refreshing one with the right proportions of all the ingredients used especially the juices and the sugar. With Goa experiencing the heat of the moment, it could be a good time to try your hand at the various options available to Goans to cool themselves the most natural way.

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Goan Cuisine : Arroz refogado with Chourico

The Arroz refogado with Chourico is a traditional Portuguese cuisine influenced Goan dish, as the name itself suggests. The Arroz means the pulao while the chourico is the pork sausage. So indeed this preparation is of Pulao with sausages for garnishing.

Pulao, is a rice based dish in which rice is browned in oil, and then cooked. Depending on the local cuisine, it may also contain a variety of meats or vegetables such as sausages etc.

Arroz Refogado with Chourico (sausage pulao)
Ingredients needed for the preparation:
6 cups fine basmati rice (clean from chaff and wash wArroz refogadoell)
12 cups chicken stock 
6 soup cubes (optional)
2 onions (sliced fine)
2 tomatoes (sliced fine)
6 flakes of garlic (sliced fine)
5 tbsp pork fat or oil
6 cloves
10 sausages
Salt to taste
Method:
Fry the sliced ingredients in oil or fat till onions are slightly browned. Add rice, cloves and fry for a while. Stir in the stock and soup cubes as well as salt if necessary and cook on slow fire with the lid on. Stir the rice now and then separate the grains with a fork. When the stock has dried and the rice is cooked put off the fire. Garnish with boiled sausages, peas, french beans, carrots and sliced hardboiled eggs.

Saturday, April 11, 2009

Goa Lok sabha polls puts liquor trade on the dock

The Lok sabha polls in Goa have found their traditional nemesis in the liquor trade, with the tightened regulations on records keeping as per the directives of the election commission.

As per directives, the excise department has asked all liquor wholesalers and distributors to furnish their daily sales registers which has angered them and in response they have downed their shutters in a protest all over Goa.

The indefinite shutdown which began on Thursday, 9th April 2009, is expected to last till the end of the elections. The Goa Liquor traders association  maintained that the excise officials' demand for daily sales registers was unreasonable at a short notice. The association held a hurriedly convened meeting  and decided to shut their outlets indefinitely. They said that they cannot comply with the directives of the Election commission and in order to avoid confrontation with the EC and the excise department the shutdown was necessitated.

Stating that tourism in Goa would be affected with the shutdown the spokesman for the association said that it is not possible to compile so much of data on a daily basis as the trade was not computerised and alleged that excise officials were overzealous during poll campaigning which tantamounts to harassment. The association was willing to co-operate but however wanted more time to comply.

With the Goan wedding season starting from next week added to the state of Goa entering the busy tourist season and with cheap and abundant liquor being one of the unique factors contributing to high sales in Goa, this shutdown is bound to hit the industry very hard if not addressed immediately.

Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Goan Cuisine : Crab Xec Xec

Seafood is a delicacy in Goa which is most desired by Goans. So naturally there are several preparations of seafood and the Goan cuisine is full of lip smacking delicious dishes which Goans prepare throughout the year.

However for the "crab xec xec", the rock crabs which are found in Goa on the banks of the rivers or on the riversides are the best compared to the sea crabs which tend to be softer than the rock crabs.However the recipe as under is suitable to both sea and rock crabs which have a thick shell and are tough to crack.

The following is a sample recipe to prepare the rock crab xec xec.

Keep the following ingredients ready:
8 - 10 medium sized rock crabs ( or sea crabs)
8 tbsp grated coconutcrab xec xec
6 kashmiri red chillies
2 tbsp coriander seeds
10 peppercorns
4 cloves
2 tbsp cooking oil
2 onions finely chopped
½ tsp ginger garlic paste
¼ tsp turmeric powder
¼ tsp tamarind juice
2 green chillies (chopped)

Goan method of preparing crab xec xec:
Clean the crabs well. If they are rock crabs do ensure that all the dirt is cleaned. An old toothbrush is a good tool to clean crabs.

Next pour the coconut in the pan and roast it lightly and keep it in a separate container.

Now roast the chillies and the spices in the pan separately

Now pour the entire roasted ingredients in a mixer to grind them or better use a stone grinder to grind them to a fine paste with a little water.

Heat the oil, brown the onion in the container , stir the ginger-garlic paste and turmeric powder. Fry for a few seconds, add the crabs, mix well and sprinkle tamarind juice. Add around half a cup of water, cover the pan and after around 10 minutes stir in the roasted spice paste, salt and green chillies. Cook the preparation until it is relatively thick.

Saturday, April 4, 2009

Goa Cuisine : Goan Sannas

"Sannas" are commonly known as the Goan rice cakes in the world outside Goa. But to the traditional Goan foodie, Sannas are an inseparable part of any festivity be it the  Church feast, birthday party, anniversary, christening, communion, or simply a bash, the sannas have to be decorating the table.

Sannas, are essentially a substitute for bread and are made from steamed  rice and coconut toddy and is a spongy, white,  and warmly sweet Goan speciality . Many outside Goa consider  Sanna to be a Goan variant of idli  a south Indian dish which is made from rice, udad dal( for fermentation), but without the coconut or the toddy. So while sannas may appear to resemble idlis on the outside, they are completely different in texture, as well as in taste. The difference between the two is like chalk and cheese.GoanSannas

Sannas are a distinct Goan delicacy, often  served as an accompaniment to a meal or as a starter in itself . It is a steamed-bread made from fat ground rice, fresh coconut, salt, sugar and toddy. Toddy forms the most essential part of the sannas and contributes to its distinct taste while also making it light.

Sannas are extremely popular among native people of Goa and also among migrated Goans such as the Mangalorean catholic community or any Goan community settled abroad. Sannas  are  popular among Goan Catholics and Hindus alike and prepared by them on several special occasions.  

Traditionally, among Goan catholics, Sannas are served with a Goan pork dish called Sorpotel which is widely popular. The preparation of Sannas entails gentle grinding wherein there is no heat generated during mixing, resulting in a healthy mixture full of vitamins . Sannas are wheat free, gluten free and fat free and because they are steamed, their appeal is absolutely distinct in taste.

Method of preparing Sweet Goan Sannas
Ingredients needed for the preparation:
2 1/2 kg Goa rice ( traditional Goan rice is best)
2-3 large fresh coconuts
11/4 kg sugar
1 ½ bottle fresh toddy
1 tbsp salt or to taste
Method:

Soak the rice overnight. In the morning grind the rice to a fine paste. Grate the coconuts and grind them. Take the toddy and strain it separately to remove any particles or sediments.

Now mix all three, i.e the ground rice, the coconut and the toddy. Add the sugar and mix the entire mixture. Add little water and salt to the mixture and pour it into a large container and keep it aside till the mixture begins to rise which should take a time of around 4 hours.

Next water is kept to boil in the "kompro", a large copper vessel with an air-tight lid used for cooking sannas. Take some saucers and pour the mixture into each saucer known as "vanttleo" ( which are made of stainless steel)and arrange them on the kompro stand and keep for steaming for around 25 minutes on high heat.

The time could be more depending on the size of the "vanttleo". After the first batch of "vanttleo' mixture is ready into steaming sannas, the next batch is ready for cooking.The freshly made Sannas are often oozing with a lovely aroma and are spongy-soft in their texture and absolutely delicious.

Have a Sannnatastic meal!

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Goa Feni gets the GI tag at last

The Goan brew which has been synonymous with Goa for many, all  over the world has finally acquired the most coveted tag - the Geographical Indication status which had been applied for some time back and which was officially accorded.

The department of Science , technology and environment had finally received the GI certificate on Monday from the Controller General of Patents, designs trademarks and Geographical Indications.

While many Goan products are in queue for the GI status aGoan fenind many others are crying for application, Goa Feni became  the first such product originating from Goa to acquire this status while also becoming the first alcoholic spirit in the country to achieve the status.

Goa Feni will now be able to get its due recognition which was long overdue and this day is a proud one for every Goan who feared that our legacy gipassociated with the natural cashew brew might be lost due to impersonation by vested interests.

Monday, March 9, 2009

Goa's "GI" list growing steadily

With Goan Feni reportedly in the bag, there seem to be a host of other contenders in Goa who are queuing up for the Geographical Indication for Goan products.

Leading the temptuos line-up is the King of Mangoes hailing from beautiful Goa, the "Mancurad". The Mancurad has been known to be a delicacy that Goans do not miss out on come April-May. and the variety is expected to make it to the list fairly easily. Though very delicious, the production of "Mancurad" is on a minimal scale and it has not been commercially exploited.

The Taleigao brinjal and its purple colour is also in consideration in the list to be submitted by the Goa science , technology and environment department besides other delicacies from the agricultural basket of Goa.The Taleigao brinjal which is a much sought after vegetable is currently grown in limited varieties as a horticultural crop and sold in local markets only.People in Goa especially north prepare various delicacies of the vegetable especially the Vaigann bhart ( a roasted brinjal dish).

So while the Mancurad and the purple brinjals of Taleigao are topping the list, the cow-peas( alsane) of Nerul and Cansaulim-Verna, some pepper and ladyfinger varieties from Ponda are also in contention.

There are some varieties of ladyfingers in Goa which are found with seven or nine ridges and this variety is only found in the state of Goa and very few other parts of the country. Also the cow peas( alsane) and some strains of pepper are unique to Goa.

There is also a variety of rice in Goa called "korgutt" which is a hardy red kernel rice which is also under consideration for GI status

Geographical Indication helps to prevent promotion of lesser quality products and protects the interests of stakeholders before the brand is captured by others . Information about these products is being compiled for the purpose of filing applications for GI status.

The endeavors to obtain GI registration is common abroad and products such as Champagne(France) , Tequila( spirits - Mexico) , Jaffa ( oranges) and Bordeaux ( wines) have obtained it. For Goa, the process for obtaining a GI tag for Feni took many years.

In India the government of Himachal Pradesh in northern India was the first to fix a policy for registration of GIs of its state products and its Kulu shawl and Kangra tea have been granted this recognition in 2005 while their government is also considering applying for the status for angoori, a special wine and red rice.

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Goan Feni - cocktails

As enlisted in my previous posts, Goa has been synonymous with the local brew Goan Feni which has made the state famous. While the brew is to be consumed responsibly as has been done by a majority of Goans, some people from outside the state have falsely used the opportunity to label Goans as drunkards which is a myth.

The Feni is our drink for sure, but by no means are we so caught up with Feni alone that we lose sight of our senses. However we love Feni to be a pure Goan brew and we are proud of its heritage.

Goan feni is of two distinct types.The Cashew feni is produced out of the juice of cashew apples and the process is very extensive and explained here. Coconut feni is the other brew made from the toddy collected by toddy tappers. While coconut feni has it’s own following, cashew feni is preferred by the majority of Goans because of it’s nostalgic taste and flavour. Also between the two, cashew feni costs more and its process is more extensive.

We have various cocktails of Feni made in Goa. some of them are as under

(1) Sizzling Goa
55ml cashew feni
a chilled soda
juice of 1 lemon
a small piece of ginger
1 clove
2 cardamom pods
1 cashew nut ( only for garnishing)

Its simple:Put all the ingredients in a pitcher and stir them. After stirring , strain and pour into a glass. Finally garnish with a piece of cashew nut.

(2) Feni on Fire
Send some ice cubes down in a tall glass

Now send a small measure of Goan Cashew feni inside that glass

Split or rather slit a green chilli and land it vertically in the glass

Now add 7 Up to the glass and garnish with a slice of lemon/lime to serve.

(3) Amcho Fidalgo - with Coconut Feni
Ice cubes
Coconut Feni
Rum
Half lemon
Sugar
Angostura bitters
Orange juice
Nutmeg
Orange slices
Mint

Put ice cubes in a reasonably tall glass. Add one large measure of Coconut Feni, a similar measure of rum, squeeze the juice of half a lemon, add two dashes of Angostura Bitters, a teaspoon of sugar. Stir and top it up with 2 measures of orange juice, a sprinkling of nutmeg. Decorate with a slice of orange and a sprig of mint.

(4)Succegado Goenkar

50ml coconut Feni ( maddancho)
1/4 tsp powder of cinnamon
1/2 tsp sugar
250 ml soda + ice cubes
Garnishing: coconut piece

Drop all the ingredients into a blender and after blending well enough, pour the mixture into a narrow glass. For decoration purpose , garnish with a round slice of coconut and an ice cube floating in it to float onto this succegado mix of Goa

(5)Sol De Laranja

Pour a single measure of Coconut Feni ( Maddancho) into a tall glass with lots of ice. Top it up with two measures of fresh orange juice and garnish it finally with a slice of orange.


Hope you enjoy Goan Feni responsibly


Thursday, December 25, 2008

Its Merry Christmas in Goa!

Its the 25th of December 2008. And hey its Christmas!!

Christmas was ushered in Goa with traditional pomp and gaiety with midnight masses as per schedule. The entire state of goa was a picture of bright light and colour with stars ,cribs and lights dotting homes and Christmas carols renting the air in Goan homes.

Midnight masses in Goa saw huge crowds all over Goa despite the heavy security arrangements in place which failed to deter traditional Goans from attending midnight mass and thereafter the revelries in form of dance and parties both indoors and outdoors in various locales in Goa.

Christmas day , the 25th of December starts with a complete bang in most Goan homes as families and friends come together in unison either personally or by calling each other over the phone with greetings of “ Merry christmas”.

This is followed by the exchange of sweets in the neighbourhood and among friends. Normally families in mourning do not prepare any sweets at Christmas time and are therefore offered more than the others. There is lovely social mingling among people in Goan neighbourhoods and people are seen exchanging warm pleasantries with each other.

A walk around the local villages and cities in Goa on the Christmas afternoon gives you the unmistakable fragrance of good food being served with its aroma spreading in theChristmas joy in Goan homes Christmas cheer. It is a fabulous feast that families and friends treat themselves to, however modest their lifestyles may be. So, in most Goan homes, Christmas is an elaborate lunch comprising of a stunning main entrée with atleast two to three equally accompanying dishes, one of which is either the pork vindalho or the roast pigling. You could also see stuffed roast or chicken or perhaps a turkey marinated in green masala and filled with raisins, liver, mashed potatoes and fruits. Basted with olive oil, it is baked slowly in the kitchen. A stuffed piglet could also find its way on the menu. Sorpotel, Cafreal and the famous Goan pulao are delicacies which are seldom avoided. A large salad spread at the edge is next to pudding or dodol in the wings of the table.

Christmas lunch is an important part of the festival celebrations as the families in Goa believe that it is the most befitting occasion for members of the family to come together and for all the family members ot eat under one roof and from the same table. It is almost an unfailing get-together for most Goan families in Goa. In fact relatives and family people working outside Goa ensure that they secure leave in advance to be at home in Goa for Christmas.

Happy Christmas To Goans and to Christians all over the world.

Xittuk Goencar

Wednesday, December 24, 2008

Christmas sweets in Goa

Come Christmas and Goan catholic homes have lot of work at hand. For years, Goans have been preparing lip smacking delicious sweets this time of the year which are eagerly looked forward to by one and all.

NormaGoan neurios and docelly Goan neighbourhoods used to take turns in preparing sweets each day and it was a traditional custom for Goan womenfolk especially, to help each other in making sweets thus ensuring a perfect harmony between households. While this tradition is slowly dying, the love for preparing the Christmas sweets also known in Goa as the “consuada” has not reduced one bit. However some of the delicacies have been lost over a period of time.

Although readymade sweets are now available in Goa due to the commercialization of tGoan kulkulshe tradition, the love for making one’s own sweets is still a strong custom followed till this day. However while the neurios, kulkuls, dodols, bebincas, bolinha, pinagre , gons and many other popular items are still prepared in Goa some other sweets of yesteryears such as bolo bebedo and pasties de natas are somehow not heard of being made in the modern age of Goa.

The bolo bebedo was made out of biscuits, dried fruit, brandy and custard and used to be a much sought after delicacy in Goa. However Goans have either forgotten the bolo bebedo or have taken convenient refuge in more popular delicacies like the bebinca.

It is no denying that most of these Christmas sweets made in Goa are a direct influence of the Portuguese. It has also been documented that it was the nuns at the Convento da Santa Monica who were responsible for introducing Portuguese recipes and for creating a blend of Indo-portuguese recipes, especially sweets such as the dedos da dama, petas de freiras, pasties de natas and pasties de Santa Clara.

Some of these delicacies hold an emotional bond for many of the elders in Goa and they normally hunt for the same at traditional Goan bakeries but have to return disappointed as the same have either been discontinued or not made due to its unpopularity among the new generations of Goans.

The marzipan sweets made out of Goan cashew are a hot favourite among all kinds of GoGoan dodolans and are normally sold like hot cakes in various bakeries. Many homes also prepare marzipan sweets in the shapes of various fruits and caricatures. Bakeries in Goa also offer traditional Christmas sweets such as bolo de nozes ( made of coffee, nuts, brandy and bread crumbs), bolo de rei ( made out of semolina, almonds and butter), pasties da Santa clara ( cashew nuts and almonds) Suspiros( lemon rind and almonds) teias de aranhas( made of tender coconut)

The common sweets like mandares, pinagre, cocada, bolinhos, batica, bolo san rival and dodol are still made and remain the most popular. However others like bolo russo, alva, pasties de banana, girgilada( made os sesame seeds) and coscoaroes ( made of flour) have not been seen for a long time.

Wednesday, December 17, 2008

Goan Pao and its closest cousins.

poeeOf late the Goan pao has caught my attention and this is probably the fourth article of the series. The Goan has been eating the pao for centuries and it would be worth noting the different varieties of bread made in Goan bakeries for a long time.

In Portuguese times we had the suriche pao which were prepared with toddy as one of the main ingredients. This delicacy is no longer made in Goa but many Goans, especially the senior citizens will nevertheless have nostalgic feelings for the suriche pao. The various types of goan bread are the Pao, the poee, pocso or pocshee (also known as undo) katryancho pao, revdo kancon and godd poee.

Making bread is an art which is perfected by experience and skill. It is therefore important to follow proper measurements of ingredients and maintenance of the right temperatures while baking the pao. The preparation of various types of Goan bread is broadly described below.

Pocso
To make the pocso, a ball of dough is taken and a cut is made across the centre so that the baking is proper. It requires a temperature of 250 degrees and above for baking. It should form a crispy upper crust on the bread.

Poee
For poee, whole wheat flour without adding sugar is used. The other ingredients for the poee is the same as the pao. However the poee is rolled like a puri and often dusted in kundo ( wheat husk).

Revdo and Katryan pao
katryan paoFor revdo, flour is kneaded into flour balls and are then given a shape by cutting with a knife and then with the palm and the little finger it is pulled without applying pressure.

Kancon
The kancon is in the shape of a bangle. The dough kneaded for kancon has very little water content and is also baked above 250 degrees.Some people in Goa still like the hard kancon which is almost like a bangle shaped toast.

The ingredients used for pao, pocso, katryan pao, revdo and kancon are the same.

Suriche pao
Suriche pao are made with fresh toddy from the Goan palm tree and sugar with whole wheat flour.

Goan pao
To make the Goan pao super fine superior quality maida with more than 10% gluten is chosen ( if whole wheat flour is used then the product is called brown bread). This is because gluten less than 10% will make the bread hard on the inside which is undesirable. For ½ kg of maida 1 measure of lukewarm milk is used. After thoroughly mixing till dissolving, 1 heaped teaspoon of fresh yeast and 4 teaspoons of sugar in lukewarm milk with a sprinkle of maida is added.

Sugar provides the reddish colour to the pao during the process of baking. This is kept for around 10 minutes to ferment and froth.

Fresh or wet yeast is a must for the pao as it contains active yeast cells and therefore yeast kept un-refrigerated loses its power to ferment and cannot be used, Adding this ferment to ½ kg of maida and a little salt for flavor will also help the dough to puff up during baking.

After this gently knead the flour with only the fingertips, add clean water and 1 tbsp of oil. The dough should not be pressed now as it will not ferment. The dough should be kept loose, firm and left closed to ferment for around an hour or two.

After 1-2 hours the risen dough has porosity. Now it needs to be kneaded well with 1 tbsp of oil till it acquires an elastic texture.

Dough balls are then placed on a well greased baking tray leaving gaps between each other and left for around 20 minutes.

After the time is over preheat the oven at 225 degrees and place the tray with dough balls inside without shaking it. In Goa, bakers bake bread in traditional ovens called as” fhorn” which are made of stone.

When the colour of bread becomes golden brown it is removed from the oven and brushed on top with a mixture of ghee and oil.
pao inside
A well made pao will have thin cell walls on the inside just like a honeycomb and a golden brown crust on the outside.
The Goan pao will always remain as the favourite for the Goan breakfast, luncheon and dining tables.

Monday, December 8, 2008

Nostalgia with Goan Feni- Our brilliant brew

Goan Feni The Goan Feni is known to hold more memories and attachments to the average Goan than being a mere intoxicating drink. For people outside Goa, the Goan Feni is being looked upon as a drink which identifies Goa with a stupor of drunkenness. While this is a miserable myth, there is no denying that the Goan Feni and Goa have become synonymous with each other given the history of its origin.


I have been used to people outside Goa asking me “ Tumhara feni bahut achha hai na?” kind of questions and it always made me wonder how this brew from Goa has become so famous with people outside Goa.

The Goan Feni thrill
While the ambience of Goa being a clean and culturally rich place with bountiful nature and sunkissed beaches gives one a feeling of peace and tranquility, the Goan feni blends with this climate with a belonging that only Goa could offer. Many havGoan cashew fruite fantasized the Goan feni in the hands of a sea drenched fisherman who landed a super catch of fish and decided to celebrate by helping himself to a peg of Goan feni and renting the air with some verses in Konkani either from goan folklore or the recently composed village ballad. Celebrations and Feni have been a part of goan joy. However intoxication with Feni is a myth especially in modern times where such excesses with the brew are avoided.

The goan feni has found its way into many world markets including the USA, Europe, Australia, Canada and even the latin Americas. With the latest certification this brew will finally get its rightful palce among the brews of the world which have a distinct origin. It will also remain to be the favourite drink for most goans who carry memories with Feni and the very mention of it to Goans abroad sends feelings of goan fervour and nostalgia.

While Feni still remains the favourite sip before dinner for many a goan, it is bound to acquire a special status given the Governments latest upgradation of the brand to a geographical origin brand which will give Feni international recognition and help it to retain its geographical origin which is Goa.

Two Varieties of Goan Feni
To many a Goan toddy tappervisitor or a tourist, the Goan Feni is the same. However to the regular goan tourist , he will know that the goan Feni is of two distinct types not be be mixed with each other . While Feni is a local brew distilled out of local sap, the sap itself is from two different sources and so two different brands of Feni are blended in Goa.


The Feni made from the sap of coconut fruit stalk which is known as” toddy’, has the final product of “Maddancho” or the Coconut Feni. However the other feni is made from the cashew fruits which are crushed and the resulting juice which is known as “niro” finally produces the” Cajuncho” or the Cashew Feni. Both the varieties have distinct tastes and are of medicinal value and known to heal people of chronic ailments in conjunction with other herbs etc. Both the varieties need a detailed procedure of preparation and while the coconut feni is being produced throughout the year, the Cashew Feni is essentially produced during the cashew crop which is from march to July .

The process of Feni preparation
The process of making the “cajuncho” or the cashew feni involves a very dedicated effort. Firstly the cashew apples are manually crushed or crushed under modernized crushers mostly atop a rocky basin cut out especially for the crushing process. This basin has a route made for the flow of the juice crushed from the cashew apples. (This juice is known as Niro and people often love to drink this juice directly as it has a delicious tase. However it needs to be had fresh before fermenting). This juice is then poured into an earthen pot which is buried inside the ground to enable the fermentation of the juice

This juice is next collected and distilled in copper pots. The same juice isGoan Feni process heated and the vapours are collected in a cooling condenser. These first distilled vapours form the “urrac ” which is also marketed as a summer drink itself.However for pure feni the The distillation process is repeated three times. While the first distilled juice obtained is known as Urrack, which is of a very low strength and is not too heady, the second distilled drink is known as Cazulo which is a slightly strGoan Feni productiononger drink than Urrack. However Cazulo is not popular and is hardly sold in markets. In fact Cazulo is a stranger to goa and is known only to the brewers. The final juice that comes out after distiliing for the third time is very powerful and highly intoxicating and is known as Cashew Feni. The cashew Feni being a product which has gone through the rigours of three distillations, has a pretty long shelf life is enjoyed much by people. Though some prefer to drink the Feni in a neat gulp others would prefer blending it with beverages such as sodas and lemon juice, etc. Good Feni can be recognized by its strong aroma and the connoisseurs of this drink will be able to recognize its quality only by a whiff of its aroma at the mouth of the bottle. Various cocktails are made with this superb brew since it has a very wide taste base.

May the blend continue to be pure and unadulterated and may it always be enjoyed within limits without excessive addiction . In the next post on Goan Feni I shall try to post some cocktails made with the great brew


Xittuk Goencar

Saturday, December 6, 2008

Goan Cuisine – Pork Vindalho

Goan pork vindalhoGoan cuisine in most catholic dishes is essentially a blend of Portuguese and goan styles. Pork Vindalho is a traditional Goan dish made with pork in a red, pungent gravy

The ingredients are as under
· 1 kg lean pork cleaned
· Salt to taste
· 10 dried red chillies/peppers
· 10 peppercorns
· 10 garlic cloves
· 1 inch piece ginger
· 8 cloves
· 1 inch piece cinnamon
· 1 tsp cumin seeds
· ½ tsp mustard seeds
· ½ tsp sugar
· ½ tsp vinegar
· 2 tsp oil
· ½ peg coconut feni
· 2 medium sized onions chopped fine
· 2 cups water



Method of preparation
Cut the cleaned pork into bite sized pieces. Apply salt and keep aside.

Grind all the spices in the vinegar, adding the ½ tsp sugar. Apply the ground spices to the meat and keep aside for 4 hours.

Heat the oil in the pan on medium heat and add the meat. Stir fry the meat for 5 minutes, then add the chopped onion, coconut feni, rest of the vinegar and the water gradually. Cover the pan and lower the heat. Stir cook till meat is tender and the oil rises to the top( approx 30 minutes). Your pork vindalho is ready

You can also prepare vindalho with Chicken or beef instead of pork.

Have a delicious meal.

Tuesday, December 2, 2008

Goan Feni – Our Scotch at last!

Goan FeGoan cashew for fenini has been popular all over the world thanks to the very land of Goa being a favourite tourist destination. This local brew from Goa is envied for its taste and purity by people over the world as it has no near competition. Besides all other so called country liquor made in any part of India is adulterous personified and cannot be trusted like the Goan Feni.


It is therefore pleasant news that this extract from Goa will soon get the Geographical Identification (GI) tag expectedly by early January 2009. The GI is a name or sign used on certain producGoan cashew Feni bottlets which corresponds to a specific geographical location or origin – a town, region or country.” Such a sign enables a certification for the product and implies certain qualities or reputation that the product carries by virtue of its geographical origin. Just as Scotch is llicensed to be produced only in Scotland, Champagne in France and tequila in Mexico, the Goan feni will enjoy similar status and the GI certification will thereby ensure that Goa rightfully retains the term ‘Goan Cashew Feni’ and so no other state , region or country can make a beverage with the same name, thereby dusting out the many plans of anxious states like Maharashtra who planned to brew cashew feni.


The Gi certification is expected to give recognition to feni while ensuring that standards are maintained for its brewing process. The brand is therefore expected to be promoted abroad in the same league as Scotch,Champagne or tequila.


Goa and goans have been producing goan feni for centuries . After crushing the cashewCashew feni brewing process fruit , the juice obtained is distilled to produce feni and an estimated thousand cottage industries and traditional brewers produce over 8 lakh litres of feni every year. Being a distinct brand Feni has found good acceptance in India and abroad with over 40,000 cases of feni exported every year all over the world including the US, Canada, Germany and the United Kingdom.


The government of Goa has classified feni under ‘ country liquor” segment which meant that Feni has not been allowed to be sold in other states of India. However the GI recognition could change all this. Goan Feni will suddenly acquire a brand image and its exclusivCashew fruit for feniity would be its strength to make inroads in all markets making it an USP to promote the product.Also the country liquor tag which goan Feni never deserved, will be shrug off and it is most likely to be re-classified as a traditional drink which it has always been for the niz goencar.

While a bottle of Feni costs anywhere between Rs 75 – Rs 800 depending upon its purity, the prices could rise many folds with the GI certification while also streamlining the process for brewing the brand.

Geographical identification has proved to be a great resource of the World trade organization system which regulates to protect a state’s interest by preventing anyone from patenting a brand without its origin being in that location.

Currently over 40 items have been identified by the government for GI certification and protection which include, spices of Kerala, Kolhapuri chappals, traditional pickles from Andhra Pradesh, , Nagpur oranges, Kancheepuram silk sarees and Darjeeling tea .


Xittuk Goencar
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